Leoganger Süd Via Ferrata
Sport via ferrata with strenuous climbing sections
Very sophisticated modern sport via ferrata with vigorous climbing sections in some very steep terrain - magnificent panoramic views into the Glockner Group.
The climb uses the structure of the wall very well and leads to the peak through the central south wall.
Currently among the best climbs in the region and has become a classic, as it is a combination with the long "Leoganger Nord" descent via ferrata.
Map description (see info sheet)
- First from the marked approach over slabs (C) to steep "Rauber Leiter" (D),
- when the terrain becomes a bit easier; trail climbs slightly to the left (B/C, often C) to Gratkopf.
- Here, the via ferrata begins; follow the Latschengrat (mostly B, also A/B) to "Liebeseck" (good rest spot).
- From here onwards, initially graduated (B), then more steep for a small stretch to (C) to the “Grasband."
- Take this down to the right (A) to the start of the "Z-Querganges". This runs traversing (B/C) but also steeply ascending (C) to the "Tax-Platte".
- Take this (B) to reach the crux, the "Bergführerquerung". Over this overhanging and slightly uphill (D- without E quickdraws) to a chimney-like intersection.
- Over this the "Ausstiegskamin" (C) upwards to a flat level under the "Gipfelwand" and take this to (C) the highest point.
For the topo map, go to: www.bergsteigen.at
- Equipment: Complete climbing equipment, climbing gloves, rock climbing helmet and 2 QUICKDRAWS (MANDATORY)! Not suitable for beginners!
- Starting elevation: 788 m
Base: Passauer Hütte
- Approach to the base: On the marked trail to the Passauer Hütte.
- Walking time to the base: 2.5 hrs.
- Base pitch: 2,051 m
Approach Ascent and Descent
- Approach/Directions: Coming from Kitzbühel or Saalfelden Leogang, in the village there is turn to the north by the church (Passauerhütte sign), then follow the signs to the parking lot of the Passauerhütte. (Parking lot near the hamlet of Ullach)
- Approach to the wall: Over the marked normal ascent to the Passauer Hütte (surefootedness required). Shortly before the huts there is a kind of saddle, the “Hochtor” (grass hill with a cross on one side, a distinctive rock edge on the other). There is a Klettersteig (via ferrata) sign and there is a marked trail to the entrance (little red dots). It takes 15 minutes to reach from the Passauerhütte!
- Starting elevation: 1,950 m
- Descent: Over the completely secured “Leoganger Nord" Klettersteig (C), from the summit path equipped with extensive ropes, you ascend over the north side.
Climb should be avoided in wet weather and when thunderstorms are likely, even when there's snow, you should avoid forego an approach (descent is on the north side where snow remains longer).
Note on the anchors: Very well secured, there are some rather wide distances between clasps. For the cross mountain pass 2 quickdraws are essential (this is a short, 17cm long safety harness with 2 snap hooks).